I have yet to find anyone who was able to have an underground fence work for their bloodhound/s. If they were so great, is this what the breeder uses? A rabbit, cat, etc. maybe worth getting zapped once to get out, but it won't be worth being zapped twice to get back in. Also, an underground fence is not going to keep animals out!!

This is the view from the french doors in the kitchen. As you can see the deck is totally enclosed.

We can shut the kennel gate, so they can't get to the grill when it is HOT, etc.

The kennel gate leads to the yard. The wooden gate to the right leads to the side yard.

Zoey and Tuba can be locked in this small kennel if we are needing to do something in the pen, without their help. This kennel leads to a doggie tunnel and then a doggie door -
which puts them inside on the porch. Then from the porch they come up 3 steps
into the kitchen or go to the basement.

1.) Check with your city or county in reference to the local ordinances or zoning for any restrictions to putting in a fence. (distance from property line, chain link, height, etc.)
2.) Check with your homeowner insurance carrier to see if they have any restrictions to the material used or the height.
3.) Prior to digging, don't forget to call to have the utilities come mark where there have underground lines. In Iowa, call 1-800-292-8989, ONE CALL. They require a 48 hour notice to come mark, before you can safely dig.
4.) Gather your materials -- a gas post hole digger can be rented and an electric screwdriver is worth of the money. Don't forget a heavy extension cord (long enough to go the distance you plan to go.) A 2x4 board and level. We put our fence in over a weekend.

What we used:

a.) boards 1"x 6"x 8' (green treated wood)
b.) posts are 4 inches wide -- (flat on two sides) - 8 ft long. (Allow enough at the top so you can add another line of boards if necessary.)
c.) black sheet metal screws -- 4 screws per board and a few extras. They don't rust and they hold up to the elements and can be screwed in with an electric screwdriver. Nails take extra work, they tend to split the boards.
d.) Gate material-including latches. Make sure one gate is wide enough for a lawnmower. If it is a LARGED fenced in area, make sure one fence is wide enough to go thru--so you can remove tree branches, bring in dirt, etc.
e.) Water Sealant-- like Thompson's (our fence took 3 gallons to spray on)
f.) Patio bricks for the heavier use areas. We sunk ours and have not had the mud issue as we did the first year.
g.) Scott's high traffic grass seed and some quick grass.
There is one board width between the boards. At the bottom, we used a 2x4 and a level, so it would be even. What we did to keep it level was put a board between the one we just secured and the next one.

Our two bloodhounds hitting the fence is a lot of pressure. So if you go over the 8 foot in length, you may need to add another post in the middle. Our fence is only about 50 inches tall; 5 boards. A 6 inch board is only 5.5 inches wide. Neither of ours are JUMPERS, climbers or diggers. We were ready to go another board if necessary. For diggers you can consider railroad ties and stakes for the bottom on the outside of the fence, an electric fence or digging therapy. For jumpers or climbers you may need a line of electric fence at the top. The electric fence can be purchased at any farm or ranch store.

In the past with a digging dog I have buried cheap cement blocks under the fence. I have also seen round posts buried underneath the fence line parallel. Drill two holes in the post, put a stake thru the holes and pound into the ground. The stakes will hold the post in place and will also allow you to space them deeper. Even the most determined digger will be slowed down and hopefully stopped. If you bury anything metal - it will soon rust and break and could injury your hounds' paws or be ingested. I would not recommend gravel or white rocks for fear of having a rock eater.... who will become obstructed.

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