This
is the view from the french doors in the kitchen. As you can see the deck
is totally enclosed.
We
can shut the kennel gate, so they can't get to the grill when it is HOT,
etc.
The kennel gate leads to the yard. The
wooden gate to the right leads to the side yard.
Zoey and Tuba can be locked in this small
kennel if we are needing to do something in the pen, without their help.
This kennel leads to a doggie tunnel and then a doggie door -
which puts them inside on the porch.
Then from the porch they come up 3 steps
into the kitchen or go to the basement.
1.) Check
with your city or county in reference to the local ordinances or zoning
for any restrictions to putting in a fence. (distance from property line,
chain link, height, etc.)
2.) Check with
your homeowner insurance carrier to see if they have any restrictions to
the material used or the height.
3.) Prior to digging,
don't forget to call to have the utilities come mark where there have underground
lines. In Iowa, call 1-800-292-8989, ONE CALL. They require a 48 hour notice
to come mark, before you can safely dig.
4.) Gather your
materials -- a gas post hole digger can be rented and an electric screwdriver
is worth of the money. Don't forget a heavy extension cord (long enough
to go the distance you plan to go.) A 2x4 board and level. We put our fence
in over a weekend.
What we used:
a.) boards
1"x 6"x 8' (green treated wood)
b.) posts are 4
inches wide -- (flat on two sides) - 8 ft long. (Allow enough at the top
so you can add another line of boards if necessary.)
c.) black sheet
metal screws -- 4 screws per board and a few extras. They don't rust and
they hold up to the elements and can be screwed in with an electric screwdriver.
Nails take extra work, they tend to split the boards.
d.) Gate material-including
latches. Make sure one gate is wide enough for a lawnmower. If it is a
LARGED fenced in area, make sure one fence is wide enough to go thru--so
you can remove tree branches, bring in dirt, etc.
e.) Water Sealant--
like Thompson's (our fence took 3 gallons to spray on)
f.) Patio bricks
for the heavier use areas. We sunk ours and have not had the mud issue
as we did the first year.
g.) Scott's high
traffic grass seed and some quick grass.
There is one board
width between the boards. At the bottom, we used a 2x4 and a level, so
it would be even. What we did to keep it level was put a board between
the one we just secured and the next one.
Our two bloodhounds
hitting the fence is a lot of pressure. So if you go over the 8 foot in
length, you may need to add another post in the middle. Our fence is only
about 50 inches tall; 5 boards. A 6 inch board is only 5.5 inches wide.
Neither of ours are JUMPERS, climbers or diggers. We were ready to go another
board if necessary. For diggers you can consider railroad ties and stakes
for the bottom on the outside of the fence, an electric fence or digging
therapy. For jumpers or climbers you may need a line of electric fence
at the top. The electric fence can be purchased at any farm or ranch store.
In the past with
a digging dog I have
buried cheap cement blocks under the fence. I have also seen round posts
buried underneath the fence line parallel. Drill two holes in the post,
put a stake thru the holes and pound into the ground. The stakes will hold
the post in place and will also allow you to space them deeper. Even the
most determined digger will be slowed down and hopefully stopped. If you
bury anything metal - it will soon rust and break and could injury your
hounds' paws or be ingested. I would not recommend gravel or white rocks
for fear of having a rock eater.... who will become obstructed.
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Email
me if you have questions-atrulli@mmctsu.com
or
atrulli@aol.com
Nothin' But Net
Designs (1996)